uncovering spam

Yes, I love Spam, but for a canned meat that's so near and dear to my heart, I didn't know much about Spam's history or what it's made of. Sure, we've all heard the rumor that Spam stands for "Spare Parts And More," but that's just an urban legend, right?

Originally called "Hormel Spiced Ham," Hormel reintroduced the canned meat as "Spam" in 1937. Spam owes its name to Kenneth Daigneau, who suggested it during a New Year's Eve party. There are many speculations and hypotheses as to what Spam stands for, but the official meaning of the name is that it is a portmanteau derived from "spiced ham."

Although Spam was a popular household product in America, it wasn't until World War II that Spam attained the recognition and consumption level it has today. Because Spam was a canned product and required no refrigeration, it was an ideal protein for the military and soon became a staple in K-rations for soldiers. These soldiers introduced the product to communities they went to, including Hawaii, integrating Spam into the local diet.

OK, so we've got the history down, but what is Spam made of? As the name "spiced ham" implies, Spam is a pork product, and don't worry, it's not made up of a pig's "spare parts." To put diners at ease, Spam is made out of a blend of pork shoulder and ham, the meat that comes from the pig's shoulders, rump and hind legs.

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Who made the first spam musubi?

Sun-Ki Chai, moderator at the food-centric Hawaii eGullet forum, found some history in "Hawaii's 2nd Spam Cookbook" (Bess Press, 2001). The book is also cited in a June 2002 article on musubi in the Honolulu Star-Bulletin.

According to author Ann Kondo Corum, Mitsuko Kaneshiro first made spam musubi for her children, but then started selling them out of City Pharmacy on Pensacola Street in Mo`ili`ili. By the early 1980s, she was selling 500 a day — all made by hand — from her own shop, Michan's Musubi. She also sold them to the wide network of blind vendors running shops and kiosks in state buildings, perhaps putting them directly before the movers, shakers, and policy makers of Hawaii. (Or maybe not.)

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Spam is not a healthy thing to eat.